About David Tann

I enjoy backpacking and meeting people around the world. Can't live without internet and movies. Passionate as a music DJ and blogger.

ISTANBUL – Am I In Europe or Asia?

Posted on February 13, 2012 by David Tann

I visited Istanbul, Turkey based on the recommendation of friends. Istanbul sits at the juncture of two continents, making it both a European and Asian city. Istanbul, which in Greek means “I’m on my way to the city”, has a current population of 17 million and sits on seven hills.

The city of Istanbul is filled with incredible history and architecture. I stayed in the Sultanahmet area, which is a major tourist area. Life in the neighborhood begins early as the first call to worship begins at 4:30 a.m. Local vendors, such as simit (round bread with poppy seeds) sellers begin pushing their carts down the street early and the sounds of seagulls from the Sea of Marmara awaken visitors.

Highlights:

1. Blue Mosque
Legend has it that this name originated from a French tourist describing the tiles inside the mosque to a friend. This mosque is known as Sultanahmet Mosque to locals. This mosque is active and is the city’s second largest. On entering, shoulders must be covered and tourists who are improperly dressed will be handed a cloak for covering. Head scarves are optional. Shoes must be removed and each individual will be given a plastic bag to carry their shoes. The blue tiles inside the mosque are really beautiful and the architecture is spectacular.

Sultanahmet Mosque

2. Haghia Sophia
Haghia Sophia, which means “Divine Wisdom”, is one of the most popular tourist sites in Istanbul. Haghia Sophia was built as a Byzantine church cathedral and then converted to a Mosque after the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople in 1453. Haghia Sophia is now a museum and expect lots of lines before entering. Inside Haghia Sophia there is a lot to see but one of my favourite parts was the wishing wall. This is a wall, which stays moist, where you put your thumb into a hole, moving your palm back and forth across a round area and make a wish. There is also a resident stray cat who lives in Haghia Sophia that is locally famous. The Prime Minister and several film crews have come just to see the cat. The cat seemed to enjoy photographers and I had to laugh that one local compared the cat to a model on the catwalk.

Haghia Sophia

3. Basilica Cistern
The basilica was one of my favourite sites, which is a Byzantine vast underground cistern across the street from Haghia Sophia. Inside is fantastic architecture including two heads of Medusa in different positions. No one knows why one head is upside down. The cistern can be a little creepy, however, as lighting is low and fish are swimming all through the cistern. Some of the fish are surprisingly large so big splashes can be heard in the dark. All of the history and buildings in Sultanahmet are incredible and most people are very friendly, but there are a few downsides. The biggest downside I saw was the aggressive Turkish rug salesmen who prey on tourists. These salesmen use various tactics (some of them not very nice) to try to lure you into their shops. Some of the locals warned me that these salesmen make commissions in the area of 35-50%, so the incentives to sell are substantial.

I actually planned some of my walks through Sultanahmet based on whether a street had a carpet shop. The other downside I was warned about was taxis taking advantage of visitors. I mainly walked everywhere and only took taxis to and from the airport. The two cabs I used were extremely nice and very honest but I was warned that some cabs are not. If you are visiting Istanbul, be sure the cab meter works or that you are being charged day rates. Apparently, some drivers will switch to rate 2 (or two dots on the meter) which is double the normal rate.

4. Topkapi Palace
Topkapi Palace is one of the largest palaces in the world, as the grounds cover more than 700,000 square meters. The Ottomans occupied this palace for over 400 years, but Ataturk turned this into a museum in 1925. Some of my favourite parts of the palace included the Sultan’s Pavillion, Circumcision Pavillion (which has an unfortunate name) and the Revan Kiosk. Beautiful blue tiles are all through these pavillions. From within the palace grounds, there are also fantastic views of the Bosphorous. The palace is arranged into four courtyards with the first courtyard open to the public. The second to fourth courtyards are within the palace walls. One room that was especially interesting was the Audience Room. When the palace was built, there were not many strategic alliances in the world. Visitors to the sultan had to bring gifts through a designated “gift door”. If the sultan was away for say six months hunting, the guest had to wait for six months in the room before being granted an audience.

Topkapi Palace

5. Grand Bazaar
The Grand Bazaar is a covered bazaar with more than 4,000 shops. Be prepared to bargain as I was told prices in the Bazaar tend to be higher. With so many shops, it’s easy to get lost inside. The shops are arranged along several themed avenues including a jewelry avenue, ceramics avenue and of course the carpet avenue. The Grand Bazaar is packed with tourists and locals alike.

Grand Bazaar

Ottoman Lamp at the Grand Bazaar. A MUST buy in Turkey

I bought 5 sets for my new house

Some friends we made at the Grand Bazaar

6. Spice Bazaar
The locals refer to this bazaar as the Egyptian Bazaar. The shops are geared more to locals and I actually preferred this to the Grand Bazaar. Shop after shop of spices, nuts, olives, sweets, meats and cheeses are all through this bazaar. The scents are incredible with all the different spice scents mingling. Be sure to investigate some of the stalls/shops just outside the bazaar as there were some unusual stores.

Spice Bazaar

7. Boat Trip up the Bosphorus
A boat trip up the Bosphorous to the Black Sea is one of the best things I’ve ever done. The sights are spectacular including several palaces, mosques, palatial homes (apparently valued in the US$3mm to US$100mm range!) and city walls. Currents in the Bosphorus are dangerous and there is only one beach along the way. If you are looking for a guided boat tour, I highly recommend She Tours (www.shetours.com) as for 35 Euros, the boat tour lasts several hours and in addition, a visit to the Spice Bazaar and city walls is included. I cannot recommend a trip on the Bosphorus enough.

Bosphorous Cruise

Overall, the city of Istanbul is exotic and really is a meeting of the East and West. The architecture and history are almost overwhelming as there is so much to see.

For more Istanbul photos, visit my Facebook album here…

Also, visit my Instagram shots of Istanbul here…

Here is a quick look at the city of Istanbul with this brief video. I’s a good travel guide through some of the most beautiful attractions in Istanbul

The Changing Face of Bangkok

Posted on February 12, 2012 by David Tann

I’ve always loved the Humpty Dumpty sidewalks and gaping sewer holes in Bangkok. The rat’s nest of electrical wires atop telephone poles, tuk-tuks belching black smoke, and motorbikes clogging the broad avenues delighted me; not even the acrid odor of rotting trash mingled with fish sauce put me off. And so it was with great excitement that I headed back to one of my favorite cities in the world after a two-year absence.

Changes in my beloved Bangkok were immediately apparent. All the king’s men have put the sidewalks together again and nary an open sewer hole is to be found. Cars now outnumber motorbikes, although ever-present tuk-tuks still scoot through the streets, preying on tourists who don’t yet realize that riding through exhaust-suffused streets in these open-air carriages will leave them breathless and choking. But though the city’s temples are as exotic and gilded as ever, the smiles of its residents seem slightly tarnished.

Perhaps my impression is skewed because I am staying in Siam Square this time, home to a glittering collection of some of the world’s largest shopping centers. In years past I have chosen hotels in the Embassy district or hostels in Khao San Road, more commonly known as Bangkok’s backpacker district. Each has its own peculiar charm: the Embassy district is loaded with great restaurants and is conveniently located just steps from the Sukhumvit line of the BTS Sky Train, while the city’s two most popular temple complexes, The Grand Palace and Wat Po, are an easy stroll from Khao San Road.

But for shopping, Siam Square is the place to be. Getting there is a breeze, since the Sukhumvit and Silom lines of the Sky Train converge at Siam Square, but it was even easier for me, since my hostel was a short two blocks away. After recovering from 36-hours of travel I headed out to get reacquainted with Bangkok. I climbed the stairs to the Sky Train’s elevated walkway for a bird’s eye view of the mega-retail complex. Through a constant stream of pedestrians and posters advertising upcoming concerts by Eric Clapton and The Eagles I spied the mirror-fronted MBK, a seven-story mall famous for its maze of shops and escalators designed to lead customers past as many of them as possible. On the other side of the intersection lay Siam Discovery, Siam Center, and Siam Paragon, all upscale shopping hi-rises in their own right. Further down the street, but still within easy walking distance, was Central World, perhaps most famous for the twin shrines at its entrance where worshipers pray to find an acceptable spouse.

These monuments to retail had all been here for years and the Thai penchant for shopping seemed no more or less prevalent than on my previous visits, however something felt very different. In this country marketed as “Land of Smiles,” no one seemed to be smiling. Shoppers rushed from store to store, toting huge bags overflowing with bounty, occasionally stopping to recharge at the McDonalds, Kentucky Fried Chickens, Taco Bells, and Starbucks that have taken over the food courts. As a result, prices in Bangkok have risen dramatically since my last visit. Starbucks asks $4 for a Latte and charges $8.50 for one-day access to their wifi. The line at Krispy Kreme went out the door of Siam Paragon and down the sidewalk. Watching this ode to American fast food, it suddenly dawned on me that Thais are getting heavier. Four years ago it was uncommon to see even a slightly overweight person; now hefty Thais are commonplace.

Would I have preferred Bangkok to remain suspended in time? Of course. But it is unrealistic to expect that places will not develop and change. However I worry that the pursuit of an ideal based upon material wealth and the accumulation of ‘stuff’ is dimming the grins in the Land of Smiles. It is a great mystery that many of the happiest people on earth seem to be those who have the least in terms of material possessions.

Where to stay in Bangkok:
On this trip to Bangkok I stayed at Lub-d Siam Square Hostel. Not only is it located just twenty steps away from the entrance to the Sky Train at National Stadium and adjacent to Siam Square, it is without a doubt the cleanest hostel I have ever seen. Initially I chose an Econo-double private room, which, at $42 per night, was well above my usual target of $10-15 per night, however I was tired after my long flight and needed privacy for a few days. The room was on special for the month of February but would normally price out at $61 for two persons. The IKEA furnished Econo-double provided a very comfortable double bed with linens, towels, and a shared bathroom with 24-hour hot water, kept sparkling clean and equipped with huge shower heads with great water pressure. Even better, each of the spacious shower stalls was equipped with shampoo and soap dispensers, sinks had soap dispensers, and hair dryers were lined up along one wall.

For more photos of Bangkok, please click here…

CHINA – Qikou

Posted on February 12, 2012 by David Tann

My Journey Route In China Over The Past 2 Weeks

Qikou is a small town about a 6 hour bus ride from Taiyuan, capital of Shanxi Province. For more than two centuries, when transportation in the area was still undeveloped, the Yellow River constituted the main transportation route for commodities between Northwest and North China. Qikou served as a vital trading point marking the eastern terminus for river-bound freight.

During the Kangxi and Qianlong reigns of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911 A.D.), Qikou was the commercial center and commodity transfer harbor, where dozens, sometimes hundreds of boats, berthed every day. Cereals, oils, salt, furs, medicines and many other products came to Qikou on water routes from Northwest China, before being transported to other parts of the country by horse and camel. Meanwhile, silk, tea, cigarettes and liquor were transported from central China to the northwest. It is said that more than two thousand dock hands worked in the harbor at that time, and that thousands of horses and camels carried commodities on the transportation route that brought prosperity to Qikou merchants.

This is one of the two reasons why travellers visit Qikou…SUNSET BY YELLOW RIVER. Picture taken outside our accommodation, Qikou Kezhan

Yellow River (Huang He)

Qikou Kezhan (hotel)

L-R: Sherine, David, Yugern Shultz (a German backpacker friend)

(Inside our cave room)

Qikou’s prosperity, however, ended with the War of Resistance against the Japanese that started in 1938, when the Japanese army invaded Qikou and destroyed the local economy. Most merchants fled, never to return. From the 1930s to the 1950s, the flood-prone Yellow River ravaged Qikou’s streets and shop. Although Qikou Town has now faded from recent memory, it has nevertheless retained its original outlook.

The significance of the site stems from the architectural ingenuity used to integrate a challenging terrain with traditional Chinese architectural forms to support the economic life of the community. The result is a dramatic landscape of buildings and nature composed of a series of cave-dwellings in a traditional townscape with satellite villages.

The main street runs parallel to the Yellow River and the Qiushui River; 13 lanes connect with it at right angles. Many shops stand along the streets, normally 5 or 6 meters above the river bank, and have enclosing walls for safety. Most of the families in Qikou live in the architectural style most typical of the Loess Plateau: cave dwellings with courtyards before them. On steeper slopes there are up to six layers of cave dwellings — a spectacular sight.

Highlights:

Lijiashan Village
This was a real highlight of my trip to Qikou, a chance to stay in a real cave dwelling! It took me two hours of walk to get to the top of Lijiashan but it was really worth it. The journey there was also interesting (i can tell you all the stories over a beer session).

We reached the top of the mountain and were met by many of the locals who lived up there. Lijiashan means “mountain home of the Li family”. 80 percent of people here share the same surname. That’s 32 people out of the population of 40! As we rounded the mountain top the village emerged through the clouds of dust. It was a breathtaking moment and we immediately felt the journey had been worth it. It is indeed a very picturesque mountain village where the people live in caves. Apparently 1.5 million people in the Shanxi area live this way. Their homes have electric and are warmer than ordinary houses in winter and cooler in summer. The downside though is the lack of running water! The toilets are basic, to be polite, and taking a wash is a bit of a struggle.

However, it’s lovely and peaceful here, and just walking around the village listening to sound of the birds singing and the chickens clucking is good medicine for the soul. We’ve enjoyed a nice trek around the mountain before our lunch. We had a lovely time sitting on the wall outside Mr Li’s home, admiring the view of this ancient village, soaking in the sun, drinking tea and chatting. After a fantastic lunch, Sherine and i headed down the mountain towards the ancient Ming town of Qikou…

Journey began early in the morning from our hotel to Lijiashan. Journey took 2 hours

I had to cross this bridge that separated Qikou and Lijiashan

After 1 hour, we saw the signboard as described by the Lonely Planet guide, another hour to go before reaching the top

Finally we reached the peak of Lijiashan. The main reason why every traveller visits Qikou

All villagers here live in cave houses

Me…at my cave house. Inside is the bedroom

My lunch, prepared by the lady owner of the cave house

I’m having my lunch in my cave room

My cave room. Warm during winter without any heating device, cool during summer.

L-R: Sherine, Mrs. Li, Mr. Li and me

Mao Zedong memorial. This is where he led his army crossing the Yellow River to Qikou

Cheng Huang Miao (temple)

View of Yellow River from the peak of Cheng Huang Miao

Travel Tips:

Folk Customs and Products:
Qikou Town receives guests all year round, but autumn is the best season for traveling there. The Red Date Festival is held in mid-September, and includes folk operas, dramas and dance performances. Wooden rowing boats and speed boats take tourists for tours on the Yellow River or drifting to Datong Qi. The best souvenirs of Qikou are its red dates and Yellow River pebbles.

Transportation:
Qikou Town is situated in the Luliang Prefecture of Shanxi Province, 230 kilometers from Taiyuan, capital city of Shanxi Province, and 48 kilometers from Lishi City, capital of Luliang Prefecture. There are buses leaving Qikou to Taiyuan at 5:35 a.m. every day that come back from Taiyuan at 12:30 p.m. The bus ride takes six hours and tickets are 40 yuan.

CHINA – Pingyao

Posted on February 11, 2012 by David Tann

If you ask me how i rate the ancient city of PINGYAO, i would say it will be my second favourite destination in China of all time. It nearly dethroned Xi’An from the top of my list. I don’t believe there’s another city in China that can match Pingyao’s combination of a relaxed atmosphere and ancient Chinese architecture. As my partner, Sherine, put it at the end of our three days in Pingyao: “I don’t think we could’ve come to a more lovely and romantic city than Pingyao.” I couldn’t agree with her more—much to my surprise.

The ancient town of Pingyao

Pingyao is a Chinese city and county in Shanxi province. It is renowned for its well-preserved ancient city wall. It was built in the western Zhou dynasty. As a result, it has a history of more than 2700 years. Many people may not know it very well. However, it is a very important city for knowing the ancient Chinese history and architecture. Pingyao is carefully preserved as an example of traditional Chinese city. It was the major commercial centre for the whole China in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Therefore, it was included in the World Heritage list in December, 1997. So, if you are keen on Chinese history and culture, you shall not miss Pingyao which presents you a real picture of ancient China.

The 7-hour soft sleeper train ride from Datong proved to be worth the extra as we arrived in Pingyao rested and ready to explore. Our hostel sent a rickshaw driver to pick us from the train station. The train station is about 10-15 minutes away from the ancient city of Pingyao.

Boarding my train from Datong to Pingyao

Inside my cabin for ‘Soft Sleeper’ train ride

View from side window

Just arrived in Pingyao

Pingyao train station

My ride to my hostel

Our hostel (YAMEN HOSTEL) is located in the centre of the old city next to the County Government Office “(Yamen)”. Yamen Hostel has an old world charm belonging way back to the Qing dynasty. It might be a hostel now but has all the amenities of a small hotel…beautifully managed by ever smiling girls, always willing to help. You enter into this low building and then walk through one courtyard after another to reach your room. The decor is of a rich old Chinese home but with a modern toilet attached. The room is huge with large windows and greenery all around the courtyard.

This is where i stayed…Yamen Hostel

The front counter of the hostel. Quite a character

The living room of the hostel

This is a courtyard hostel. So, they do have a big courtyard

The entrance to my hostel room

Welcome to my room

The door was ancient and unique. Comes with a heater

My bed…ancient Han style. Room only costs RM65 per night

As we began to walk around that next morning, however, we realized that this city was more than a dream, it was our chance to travel in time through China’s history and experience life as it was in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. Our research prior to arriving in Pingyao told us that this city was founded in the 14th century by the Ming Emperor Hongwu and became well known as the financial and banking center of China. Fortunately for many tourists today, Pingyao has managed to avoid vast modernization for the 600 years since it’s founding by retaining most all of its ancient buildings, narrow stone-cobbled streets, and city wall, but as the city becomes a popular travel destination such preservation has been difficult to maintain. No less than three decades ago this city was virtually unknown, but in 1986 the city was designated a Chinese Historical and Cultural city by the PRC and later in 1997 was given full honors as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

Our preliminary walk through the city was quiet, pleasurable, and surprisingly short. From one side of the city wall to the other was never more than 300 meters and to completely walk around its perimeter was only a quick 6.4 km. Although the architecture of the surrounding buildings is mesmerizing, what really caught my eye was the feeling that I was a suddenly part of a black and white movie. I couldn’t help but notice how grey and colorless the city looked having used stone to cover or build every imaginable structure. Cars were noticeably absent from the narrow streets, replaced by trotting donkeys and the occasional motorcycle, giving my ears a moment of relief from the city noise I had become so accustomed to hearing here in China.

Highlights:

The City Wall
Many city walls still exist in China – some old and ruined (like Kashgar) and others beautifully restored (as in Xi’An). Pingyao is unique in that its city wall is the earliest and most intact city wall in China. It rises 12 meters high with an average width of 5 meters and is surrounded by a small moat no wider than 4 meters. Very little restoration has been required throughout the years, meaning that what you see now is very close to how it was hundreds of years ago.

Having just arrived from Datong, I was first struck by how small this wall seemed. Obviously it wasn’t built with large trucks in mind, so the South Gate is quite narrow to pass through and I loved seeing the carriage-car indentions in the stone road. Being on top of the wall doesn’t feel as high as in Xi’An, yet Pingyao’s small size and tiny buildings allowed me to see the entire city and even the other side of the wall – something I couldn’t do in Xi’An. We had the option to rent a bike to ride around, but we decided it would be more enjoyable to walk the uneven stones on foot. It was along this wall we were able to see the most ancient parts of Pingyao, its homes, as well as the countryside which surrounded the city.

Pingyao City Wall. The city is within the four walls and my hostel is inside

The North gate

Sunset at Pingyao City Wall

Sunrise at Pingyao City Wall

East gate

Ri Sheng Chang Financial Museum
Ri Sheng Chang Exchange House, established in the early Qing Dynasty, became a financial powerhouse in China, boasting numerous branches throughout China, and a financial system which would be the foundation of China’s banking future. Even though I have no real interest in banks, I was not disappointed by the time I spent looking around this fascinating museum. If you’re a fan of architecture, as I am, you’ll love the courtyards, offices, and buildings. If you admire ancient furniture you’ll find yourself eagerly anticipating each new room and what treasures it might hold. If you love old coins and money you’ll find more than you can handle. Finally, if you have any interest in Chinese history whatsoever you’ll be drawn in by how a small city could have a profound impact on such a large empire.

All signs throughout the museum had been translated, although not always correctly, into English, but there were some things I just didn’t care to read. This bank had closed in the early 1900’s after a long and successful history, but they didn’t leave without a tiny bit of bitterness. Almost every sign made the clear accusation that the bank’s failure was a direct result of western competition or interference. The more I read and walked around the more I felt like I was on trial for the murder of this banking system, regardless of the fact that it was before my time and I had paid money to enter the museum. Thankfully this wasn’t enough to ruin my experience.

County Government Office and Jail
Not much is written about this place in travel books or internet sites, but since it was included in the general admissions ticket we decided to take a look. Again we were pleasantly surprised by the simple beauty and great amount of history here. At this Government Office you’ll be able to see a proper court of law as well as experience what a Chinese jail cell is like while walking around beautiful ponds, grand courtyards, and large trees.

Although all of this history was staring us in the face, we were unfortunately not able to soak most of it in because very little sign direction or literature was found to guide us. Even still, taking pictures in a Chinese jail cell was plenty enjoyable.

County Government Office and Jail

Zhangbi Ancient Village
Zhangbi Ancient Village also known as Zhangbi Ancient Castle is one of the National Heritage Conservation Units and at the same time was named as one of the Top 10 Charming Town by CCTV in year 2005. Zhangbi Ancient Village is well known for its unique architecture where it looks like a castle on the ground but in fact, there is a long tunnel which connects this castle with the world outside underground. It had been a multi-purpose castle which served as a military center, residential area, production site as well as religious activity throughout the history. The entire tunnel which remains until now was built since year 617, with total length of ten kilometers. The tunnel was either two or three levels with the width for one or two persons to pass through while the average height of the tunnel is below 1.8 meters. However, many sections of the tunnel had been destroyed due to earth quakes and floods throughout the years. The original plan of the tunnel had no where to be proved but it is still an interesting historical site to visit anyway.

Zhangbi Ancient Village and underground tunnel used during war time. I am going to explore the tunnels now

Inside the tunnel

Where the commander will sit and lead

The exit

with a local

Wang’s Family Courtyard
Within day-trip distance from Pingyao lies China’s most extravagant Qing Dynasty residence after the Forbidden City of Beijing. Absolutely colossal in size and shrewdly preserved during the Cultural Revolution, this once-private complex has opened to the public only in recent years, and is still fairly unknown to foreign visitors.

Wang’s Family Courtyard, or Wang Jia Da Yuan, has remained under the tourism radar for decades, under cover as a destitute farming commune on the Loess Plateau. Even today most Chinese citizens outside of Shanxi Province have never heard of it, and only in the past several years has it slowly become a popular day-trip for visitors to Pingyao.

Wang’s Family Courtyard was once the greatest of the great Jin Merchant family compounds in the region, all within 2 hours drive from Pingyao. The clans of Qiao, Qu, and Cao all had their own fortified complexes, with the Qiao’s being the most famous thanks to the filming of several high profile TV dramas and movies, including Zhang Yimou’s Raising the Red Lantern. But in terms of size and grandeur, nothing can beat the immense fortress of the Wangs.

Wang’s Family Courtyard

Other Pictures:

The famous restaurant, De Ju Yuan

As recommended by the Lonely Planet travel guide

The owner of De Ju Yuan

CHINA – Datong

Posted on February 10, 2012 by David Tann

My Journey Route In China Over The Past 3 Weeks

Suggest a weekend of travelling to Datong and almost every Chinese man will screw up his face. Ye Dirty Olde Coal Town is officially China’s 4th most polluted city and is just down the road from the world’s most polluted, Linfen. But with a history spanning 22 centuries, including two as the capital of the Northern Wei Dynasty, there is much more to Shanxi Province’s City of Coal than soot-swathed buildings. There’s a 1,500 year-old temple that hangs from a cliff face, China’s oldest and tallest wooden structure and caves chock-full of tens of thousands of ancient Buddha statues – some rivalling even those on the banks of the River Nile for scale and awe.

Datong sprawls across a coal-rich basin surrounded on three sides by golden-coloured mountains. The settlement was founded around 200BC and grew as a thriving pit stop for camel caravans transporting their wares north to Mongolia. At its peak as the capital of the Northern Wei Dynasty from 366-494, Datong saw many labourers construct some of China’s most magnificent sites.

Xuan Kong Si Hanging Temple
I’m not normally one to quiver at heights, but delicately treading along the Hanging Temple’s mid-air walkways, I felt a slight sensation of Acrophobia. It may’ve been the much-lower-than-usual handrails, but it was most likely the sheer 17-story drop to the meadow below.

Construction of the temple began in 490A.D. by a single monk – a very brave monk – called Liao Ran. In the years that followed, it was extended and repaired to what is now more than 40 rooms, linked with walkways, precariously perched 50 metres (164 feet) above the grass.

In addition to the 1,520 year-old engineering masterpiece, the complex has plenty of statues from different dynasties and religions including Confucian, Taoist and Buddhism. As a bonus, there’re a few tourists to provide entertainment (including Sherine and me), nervously clinging on to whatever they can while posing for photos.

Yungang Grottoes
Datong’s most polished and celebrated attraction is the magnificent Yungang Grottoes complex. 2,400 years ago devout Buddhists started chipping away at a sandstone cliff just outside of Datong, creating caves full of Buddha and Bodhisattva statutes. The art caught on and there are now 51,000 carved statues from 4cm (1 ½ inches) to 17 metres (56 feet) tall throughout the 53 caverns. The UNESCO World Heritage Site is one of the three most famous sites in China for ancient Buddhist art.

The caves are carved along about a kilometre (0.6 miles) of cliff face and sit amongst massive landscaped grounds. Although pilgrims removed the odd statue, the Red Army beheaded a few Buddhas during the Cultural Revolution and the occasional traveller has left graffiti, the ancient cultural relics are in mint condition, having been thoughtfully restored with no expense spared. Wandering around the complex under clear blue skies, I was amazed how little I had heard about this genuinely world class site.

Datong’s appeal doesn’t end with its golden days of ancients times; one of its most loved attractions is much more recent. I’d put Datong high on the list of places to visit in China. As an easy 8-hour train ride from Tianjin, it’s not far off the well-trodden triangle of Shanghai – Xian – Beijing, but a little more personal.

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Author Archives: David Tann

About David Tann

ISTANBUL – Am I In Europe or Asia?

The Changing Face of Bangkok

CHINA – Qikou

CHINA – Pingyao

CHINA – Datong